A Wedding...Taiwanese Style

On October 19, I had the opportunity to attend a Taiwanese wedding. Now, I'm usually not a big fan of weddings (at least not the ones I have to attend...I still love watching on TV though). However, I heard and read from many sources that if you get invited to a Taiwanese wedding....GO! Everyone was right. It's an experience you must have. My only regret is that I didn't bring my camera.

My Principal's son was getting married. She invited all of us foreign teachers. I was the only one able to attend. That's not a problem for me. I moved to Taiwan alone. I think I can handle a wedding alone.

First, you need to know the tradition of the red envelope. The red envelope is just that a red envelope filled with money. It's a gift given during special occasions like Chinese New Year and weddings. It's customary to give at least 1200 NT (about 36 USD) per person as a gift. If you bring a guest, that means you double the sum you're giving. Never give a gift of money with a four in the amount. Four is to the Chinese what 13 is to Westerners. That's because the Chinese words for four and death are extremely close in sound. They even build buildings without fourth floors.

I arrived at the Ambassador Hotel with red envelope in hand. As soon as I arrived, I knew this was a high class affair. The Ambassador was obviously a high end hotel located in the heart of Kaohsiung right along the Love River. The signs were in Chinese but I found the one with two hearts and followed the arrow on it up stairs.

I immediately saw people I knew from school. Alice was taking red envelopes along with two other women. They would open the envelope and record the amount given and who gave it. The also directed me to sign a long piece of paper (similar to our Western guest books). I was quickly ushered to the principal who was dressed to the nines in formal evening attire for some pictures. Then I had three or four people from school escort me to my friend Alexis (the Principal's niece and former Wu Fu English teacher) and my seat.

I was in awe of the sheer number of people that were there. There had to be nearly 1000 guests or just under. There was a huge stage at the front of the room with the western style wedding cake on one side and a pyramid of champagne glasses on the other. The musicians were in the middle and the singer was wandering through the tables on the floor.

Just after I sat down, a screen came down showing a slide show of the couple. Alexis explained that in Taiwan, couples have their wedding photos done in advance. It's a full scale photo shoot like you would have for any major fashion magazine. They wear different outfits and have their hair and make-up done (yes, the groom too). I think I counted four or five different "scenes" (including different gowns for each) for this couple.

Soon the show began and I do mean show. Actual wedding ceremonies are small and private. They're only between the immediate families. The banquets are where the action's at. The lights dimmed and children in bedazzled and sequined costumes representing Disney characters came dancing down the main aisle of the hall. Then they performed a choreographed routine to Tony Basil's "Mickey" on the big stage.

Next, was the grand entrance of the bride and groom. The groom was lead down the aisle by a Native American chief in full headdress. The bride followed wearing a traditional white wedding gown. She was escorted by a Native American princess. There was music playing and all eyes were on the bride and groom. All the while, the banquet is in full swing. By the time the bride and groom made it to the stage, we had already been served our second of 12 courses.

The show continued. There were young ballet dancers from Beijing that danced to the Chinese version of "Memories" from Cats. The parents made speeches. The governor of Kaohsiung County was there and made a speech as well as other government officials. The Native American chief and princess presented the bride and groom with a card. The happy couple was also made to shout their love for each other on stage and kiss in front of all the guests.

The food was outstanding. It was traditional Chinese fare with a ritzy twist. By course eight or nine I was stuffed and had trouble continuing to sample everything. Different groups walked around to every table to toast the day and the happy couple. We toasted with fresh guava juice. I love guava juice. The bride and groom also made the toasting rounds with their parents. At that point, the bride had a new hairstyle and beautiful deep burgundy ball gown with gold accents.

I had Chinese class so I had to leave the banquet a little early but things were wrapping up anyway. Alexis walked me out to help me take part in the last wedding custom. The bride and groom stand at the exit with trays that have candy, their picture, and a small gift (in this case a purple bead lotus flower). This is to thank their guests for coming. Alexis taught me the Chinese phrase to say to them but I forget. It's along the lines of our congratulations or good luck. The bride was in her third ball gown of the evening with yet another elaborate hairstyle. This dress was a deep, rich red that reminded me of a gothic princess. I think it was my favorite of the three.

I wondered when the bride and groom have time to eat during all this hoopla. I know at American weddings (which even the largest are small compared to this) many times the bride and groom don't really get to enjoy their meal and end up going hungry. Alexis told me not to worry. The happy couple actually gets to eat in the hotel room before the festivities start because they have no chance to eat during the actual banquet.

I also found out that unlike in the west there is not just one party but two. I attended the banquet hosted by the groom's family. This banquet is mainly for his family, friends and his and his parent's business associates. My principal told me that this weekend she was off to Taichung to do the same thing all over again for the bride. Wow!

After experiencing a Taiwanese wedding, the western wedding pales in comparison. The Taiwanese know how to celebrate in style. I have another teacher friend who attended a smaller wedding in her town the same weekend. They might not have had all the performances but she reported many of the same experiences...a delicious twelve course meal, 3 beautiful gowns for the bride, gifts from the bride and groom at the end, constant rounds of toasting. All the major elements were present, just with less people. All I have to say is the Taiwanese know how to do it up in style where weddings are involved.

Birthday in Taiwan

I just turned 32-years-old and I celebrated in a foreign country. What an experience to have a birthday in Taiwan!



A few weeks ago, all the foreign teachers in Kaohsiung County (county in Taiwan = state in U.S.) had dinner with the governor. During the dinner, the governor's secretary, Kris, invited me along with the other foreign teachers to join the English conversation group that some of the county employees have. I mentioned that my birthday was around that time. Kris got so excited and decided to turn the dinner into a birthday party for me. So now, I'm had a birthday party being thrown by the government. This is wild and I just keep thinking this would never happen in the States.



The party was a full on Taiwanese banquet and, apparently, I was the guest of honor. That was a wild concept in my mind. Most of the other foreign teachers in the country were there and many government officials. There was so much food it was almost obscene. Traditional Chinese banquets serve food family style from a giant lazy suzy (lazy susan in the States) in the center of the table. I think there were 10-12 courses at this dinner. The food was never ending. There was also Taiwanese red wine and Taiwan Beer (brand name).





I was sitting next to a man named, Hup. Hup is the Director of Civil Affairs (disclaimer: any names and titles could be wrong because I'm writing this from memory two weeks after the event and the name cards they gave me are all in Chinese). Kris kept telling Hup he wasn't doing his job because I wasn't drunk. Hup, however, was drunk and having a good time with his Taiwan Beer. It was a Tuesday night and my principal was there so I had absolutely no intention of getting drunk anyway. Kris tried to help me feel more comfortable with imbibing more. He asked my principal if I could have the next day off. Of course, she said yes but I knew I was really expected in school the next day. Furthermore, I had no intention of taking the day off. I had work I wanted to do.





The cake they bought me was stunning. One thing you learn quickly in Taiwan is baking is an art form. There are coffee shops with baked goods on every corner. The cakes in the cases are outstanding. I love to just look at them. Even better...they're cheap. Such an elaborate cake in the U.S. would cost more than $40 or $50. Here, you might pay $15-$20 USD. They taste good, too. Everyone sang to me and I blew out a candle just like back home. Then I was asked to cut the cake. This is an important tradition. The birthday person makes only one cut into the cake for good health. You DO NOT cut a whole piece or it's bad luck. You just make the first cut and then someone else finishes cutting for you. The cake tasted as divine as it looked.



We enjoyed the good food and conversation for awhile. Soon Kris stood up. Thanked everyone for attending and then said the party is over. Another banquet rule in Taiwan, when the party is over, you don't have to go home but you can't stay here. The beginning time is flexible but the end time is firm. In the U. S. you always have people who linger and talk. Our parties end much more gradually. I don't mind this cultural difference. It's nice to know when I'll be getting home.

My students also celebrated with me at school. My advanced sixth graders surprised me with flowers, chocolates and a speech in English during class on my birthday. They're teacher came in and took pictures as they presented me with their gifts and a card. They also sang to me in English and Chinese. They're a challenging bunch to teach but still a fun group of kids. My principal also came into class and presented me with a small statue as a gift. Then she took pictures of me will all my grade 6 students in that class. Needless to say, I didn't get a whole lot of teaching done that day.

All day, students visited my office with little notes and gifts. One little girl, Ruby, brought me a bear in a wedding gown that was one of her toys and a blank book with a happy birthday note she wrote in English and another note that her friend wrote. It was so sweet because I'm not actually her English teacher but she always talks with me in the English office. All the students are like that. They are so eager to use their English so they can speak to the foreign teacher. They make any of the tough parts of living in a foreign country worth it.

Below are some more pictures from my party. I hope you enjoy.










Okay...so Xiao Hu wasn't at my party but she's so darn cute. I just had to show her off. She's getting so big.

Sucker!

*Editor's note: I mention below that cat's tails are crooked because of human intervention. However, one of my reader's pointed me in the right direction. Street cats are too quick for someone to catch them and break their tails (I've found this out personally). Most Taiwan street cats have crooked, short or kinked tails because most have some Japanese Bobtail blood in them. It's the hallmark of that breed to have an irregular tail. Japan left their mark on Taiwan during their occupation in the early part of the 20th century that is still evident today. I guess they left their mark on the Taiwanese cats, too.

I was sufficiently warned before I left the states about the problem Taiwan has with stray animals...particularly dogs. You will see them everywhere you go but they're nothing like strays in the states. These dogs are friendly and docile. Furthermore, the WHO has declared Taiwan a rabies free country which means you don't need to worry about that disease.

These dogs will wander in and out of stores and restaurants and no one pays them any mind. Many times foreign friends and I laugh about this. A dog in a restaurant would shut it down immediately in the States. The Taiwanese do have dogs for pets but I've noticed they prefer the smaller dogs that they can carry around. I have always referred to those as "rat dogs". I'm not a dog person but if I were, I'd want something that wouldn't fit in my purse.

Taiwan also has stray cats wandering around. You won't see as many of these as dogs. I believe there's a number of reasons why. Cats are considered lazy and bad luck by the Taiwanese. At least, that's what my students tell me. Most street cats have mangled and deformed tails. I was told this is because people break their tails to stop the bad luck (I haven't had this reason verified so I don't know that it's true). I also imagine many of the street cats lose battles with the dogs and become dinner. I suppose it's survival of the fittest at work.

Everyone warned me to not rescue one of these animals. It's difficult to find English speaking vets and sometimes it's difficult to take them home when your time is finished in Taiwan. I was resolved to follow this advice.

That is until I saw a kitten almost get pulverized by a car on my way home from school. Another foreign English teacher gave the kitten and I a ride to a vet in my neighborhood. I struck gold and he spoke English. He informed me the kitten was a one-month-old girl. She was healthy but dehydrated and malnourished. I said I would foster her until I could find her a home and he didn't charge me for the visit. I left the office resolved to find her a home and started by refusing to name her.

However, I'm a sucker and have been yearning for a new cat since shortly after I put my cat, Squirt, to sleep nearly four years ago. By Sunday, I had an e-mail from someone interested in her and my heart dropped to my stomach. She followed me everywhere around my apartment and loved sleeping on my lap. She even cried when I wouldn't let her sleep on my bed. She had made me hers. By Monday, she had the name Xiao Hu (little tiger in Chinese).

I have no worries about adopting Xiao Hu. There's a wonderful organization in Kaohsiung called BARK. They rescue street animals and find them homes. They will give me kitty litter and will spay and microchip her for free. I'm only responsible for her vaccinations. They know that the stray population is too big to find homes for every animal here so they have a CNR program (catch and release). There are strays that they catch, de-sex and release back onto the streets so they cannot contribute to increasing the stray population. BARK will also send pets to the States at their expense to anyone who wants to provide them a home. Check out their web site at www.bark-taiwan.org (Hint...hint...they accept PayPal donations).

Now, I'd like to introduce you to Xiao Hu. Who couldn't love a kitten this cute?

Wu Fu Elementary School

I know you are all just dying to read about what my school is like. First, it's huge. I think there are about 1500 students for grades 1-6. This is much bigger than most elementary schools in Ohio. Even with all these students we have empty rooms so the building is very big as well.

We start construction on an English Village this week. The English Village concept came from Korea and is very popular in Taiwan, especially Kaohsiung County, where I teach. There are various them rooms where students practice practical conversations in English. Students in my own school will visit every other week and students from other schools will travel to Wu Fu to use the English Village, as well. I spend most of my time teaching the English Village curriculum to fifth and sixth grade. The first unit was fast food restaurant. Eventually, my students will visit Wu Fu Burger in the English Village and hopefully, be able to order an entree and drink in English.

I also have the fifth and sixth grade advanced English classes. These students have to test into this homeroom group and they get extra English instruction. They have two 40 minute periods in a row with me each week. They also have class with the native Taiwanese English teacher for one period each week and they have another period with one of the other foreign English teachers.

School buildings in Taiwan are very different from in the U.S. The schools are all open. There are no hallways. You walk along balconies to the next classroom. Restrooms are different as well. They are shared by all boys and girls, students and teachers. This took some adjustment but you get used to it after awhile. We have a track and football (aka soccer) field on the side of the school and basketball courts in the center of the school. We also have various gardens and a waterfall with a koi pond.

The school schedule is very different. There are eight forty minute periods in a day. School starts at 7:50 but the students are there earlier than that to clean the school. They sweep and mop and take out the trash. There are three 10 minute breaks and one 20 minute break in the morning between periods. They clean during the 20 minute break and play on the other breaks. Then there is an hour for lunch and a following lunch a 30 minute nap. Everyone takes a nap, including teachers. It's so hot here that you need it by that time of day. My body is tired then but I can't seem to fall asleep. I'm used to being awake when the sun is out. The afternoon is much like the morning and students go home at 4.

I think this schedule is much better for the students compared to the American way. It gives them regular breaks throughout the day. They aren't expected to sit and attend to class for too long. They're given time to expend excess energy at regular intervals so they have an easier time paying attention. Of course, kids will be kids and I have pre-teens so there is still a lot of talking that goes on but they seem to keep it under control when they have to. They all laugh when I say "Be quiet" in Chinese, though.

Below you'll find some pictures of my school. Sorry I didn't place them all neatly dispersed through my post this time. I just have the time or inclination to play with the html code. I'll do better next time.

My New Home

I am finally settled in my own place and just completed my first week of school. It was an exhausting and crazy week and I spent most nights walking around my area of the city.

I live in a single apartment (kind of a studio apartment but smaller). There is a shared laundry and kitchen area. I guess the other residents here are all foreign English teachers but I never see them because they work at bushibans. Bushibans are English schools that students go to after the regular school day. They leave school at about 4 p.m., eat dinner and then go to bushiban until about 9 p.m. That means all my neighbors have the opposite schedule of me.

My room is fully furnished, including a refrigerator, cable and internet. I have a bathroom that is also my shower. I love this concept. I can wash my bathroom floor and myself all in one shot. I also have a small dressing are/laundry drying room. These rooms are common in Taiwan. They are situated where there is good ventilation because you air dry ALL of your clothes. Cloths dryers are rare in Taiwan and those who have them are usually westerners. I've rigged a plastic chain across my little drying room to hang my clothes from for drying.

I created a little bedroom by using my bookshelf as a wall. It's cozy enough for me. I made sure I can't see the T.V. from my bed so I'm sure to go to sleep right away. Although, I still managed to fall asleep with the T.V. and lights on last night. I guess some habits are hard to break no matter what country you're in.

My neighborhood is full of life. I live near a lot of different city parks. A few blocks east of me is a beautiful park along the Love River. In the evenings, the park comes to life with couples on dates and groups practicing Tai Chi and other martial arts. Just northwest of me is a brand new department store called Han Shins. It's out of my price range but fun to window shop at. They have a huge food court with all kinds of foods and a fancy grocery store right next to the food court. Koahsiung Arena is right next to it. A five minute walk south west and I'm at the KMRT station (their new subway system). I ride to work everyday and it's another 5 minute walk from that station to my school. I think I can get through this year without a scooter or a bike. I walk and ride the subway everywhere.

I live in a trendy and bustling urban neighborhood. There are lots of stores and restaurants as well as food carts. There are also plenty of Western restaurants. So far, I've found Subway, 2 McDonald's, Burger King, Pizza Hut and Starbucks all within a few blocks of my apartment. I'm trying to avoid those places because I can eat there any time in the States (even though for the most part I haven't eaten at most of those places in over a year). The temptation is strong though because ordering is much easier there. Most of the servers know the English names of the sandwiches and I know exactly what I'm getting. For the most part, I've gone vegetarian since arriving here because I can't stomach how they prepare meat (with all body parts still attached). Even in the States I preferred to not have my meat on the bone because that was to much of a reminder of it's living state for me. I know...I'm weird. The vegetarian options are great here, though. The have all kinds of wonderful fake meats and they do some many things with tofu and mushrooms. I've been enjoying my new eating habits.

I think I'm adjusting fairly well. I have my moments of culture shock or homesickness. It's only natural to have them. I think living in such a busy city and also keeping active with work helps make those moments brief. Keeping myself occupied is the key and there is so much to explore here.

I'll be taking my camera to school next week. I can't wait to share with you about my school and classes. There are plenty of differences but also some similarities. I hope you will enjoying seeing them.