A Very Merry Kaohsiung Christmas!

Last year, I made the New Year's resolution to spend each Christmas in another country. I was thinking I would spend my first in Germany or England where so many American Christmas traditions originated. At the time, Taiwan was not exactly on my radar but here I am. I kept my resolution. Just in a very different way than I originally planned.

Most of the Taiwanese are not Christian. The official statistic I saw before I left was they're 85 per cent Buddhist. However, I've had plenty of native Taiwanese tell me it's more a combination of Buddhism, Daoism and Confucianism. That being said, Christmas is not an officially recognized holiday here. Yes, I had to work the WHOLE week. Don't bother e-mailing me to rub in your winter breaks. I'm already jealous.

Even though it's not an official holiday. The Taiwanese still recognize Christmas. They love everything Western here so of course they have Christmas. They just don't celebrate the religious aspect. It's secular and very commercial here.

All of the big department stores were loaded with Christmas decorations since late November. Just like in the States they were piping Christmas carols to every nook and cranny. Buxibans (cram schools that teach English after school) were decorated to the nines as well. Stationary stores were loaded with Christmas decorations, wrapping paper and cards to sell. They were are very sparkly which I've noticed is a recurrent theme in Taiwan. They love the bling.

One of my favorite decorations I saw on many buildings was what I like to call the "Cat Burglar Santa". In America, you'll see decorations with Santa and his reindeer on top of homes. I guess Santa doesn't need a sleigh in country with no snow. Instead, you'll see Santa scaling the walls of various homes and businesses. With the bag over his shoulder, he looks like he's up to no good. It's been a source of some great laughs for me. It is logical though. A sleigh won't work so well with no snow.




The department store in my neighborhood, Hanshins, had Christmas performances outside the store every night for more than a week leading up to Christmas. Sometimes the choirs sang the traditional carols in English and sometimes the carols were in Chinese. It was kind of strange to hear classically trained opera singers performing "O, Holy Night" in Chinese. I wanted to sing along but just couldn't.

Because, I was working all week, I didn't really celebrate. Christmas Eve was on a school night, folks and we had a lot of work to do this week preparing for our big Christmas show on Friday. I did me with other foreign English teachers for a Christmas dinner of pizza and many different desserts. We ate, talked and listened to Christmas songs. It was pretty low-key because it was once again a school night. I'd already slept through my alarm twice that week so I was going to be taking it easy and hitting the hay early.

Friday is English Day at Wu Fu so we decided to hold our Christmas show on that day. The English teachers wrote a version of the "12 Days of Christmas" using vocabulary that the students have learned so far this year. We also had groups of students who acted out each gift. The big finish was 12 crackers cracking where everyone in show had one of those little champagne bottles that you pull the string and you have a little explosion and streamers. The kids loved it.




After our little song we had students come up on stage for a "Ho, ho, ho" contest. We also had a Christmas costume contest. My favorite was the reindeer with sunglasses and wrapped in blankets. Some of the students got very creative with their costumes and all the foreign teachers appreciated the effort.

After the show, we walked around with Santa and Mrs. Claus (our city councilman and his wife) and handed out candy to all the good little girls and boys. It was nice to have our neighborhood politician there and he and his wife really enjoyed their roles. They did a fantastic job spreading the Christmas spirit.

Below you'll find some more pictures of the students at the Christmas show and some pictures of the actual show. I hope you enjoy them. Now, I'm looking forward to St. Patrick's Day.

Kaohsiung Harbor

Today, I received a little treat. The teachers and volunteers at Wu Fu got to go on a tour of Kaohsiung Harbor. This is one of those things that you say you want to do when you live someplace but never actually get around to doing. I was happy to spend my afternoon on a boat in the harbor. Even though I might say I'd do it on my own, I know that, in reality, I would probably never get around to it.

Kaoshiung is one of the busiest port cities in the world. The majority of those items you have around your home that say "Made In Taiwan" make their way through Kaohsiung Harbor. Today, I might have just seen the container with your new computer or your next pair of shoes. You can read all the details about the port in this Wikipedia article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_of_Kaohsiung

We couldn't have asked for a more perfect day for a boat ride in the harbor. There wasn't a cloud in the sky and only a light breeze. The late afternoon sun shone brightly overhead. At first, I wasn't sure I'd find such an industrial tour interesting. In fact, I didn't understand a word of the actual tour because it was all in Chinese (hopefully, that'll change with a few more Chinese classes). I enjoyed the company of my colleagues and the scenery instead.

I remembered to bring my camera along and I hope you enjoy the pictures I took. This tour provided some of the best views of Kaohsiung 85 that I've seen since moving here. Kaohsiung 85 is the tallest building in the city and overlooks the harbor. It's certainly the most distinctive feature of the Kaohsiung skyline. I bet you can't guess how many floors it has?

We finished our tour around 3:30 and some of us stayed at Fisherman's Wharf to talk and enjoy the view. The wharf is just a string of trendy restaurants, bars and coffee shops. It's an amazing place to see the sunset over Cijin Island across the harbor. I got to watch the light of the sun make the water glisten as it slowly disappeared in the sky and thought about who I would like to share this view with.

Fortunately, I got pictures of that sight so I'll be sharing remotely with all of you in the blogosphere.

Visitors and Taiwanese Opera

Wufu gets a lot of visitors from all over the world. In the last couple of months, we've had principals visit from Canada, the Philippines and Japan. We also had a group of foreign exchange students visit from Finland (they're attending a local high school) and a Turkish television station was here filming.

Wufu always rolls out the red carpet for these groups. Our students are very active in a number of activities and they are put in classes based on that. We have students that perform Taiwanese Opera and Taiwanese plays. These students are in a performing arts group. The students who are gifted athletically are in a class together. We have on of the top Diabolo teams in the country (that's version of Chinese yo-yo). The students who are in band have their own class. We also have a very competitive table tennis team.

Whenever there are visitors at our school, the get to see the skills of many of these students. I love watching them perform because these are my students as well. I'm always extremely proud of them whenever I see them on stage. They work very hard every day to cultivate their talents.



I have included some pictures below. I will continue to add more as I can get them. Many times I'm teaching a class when they perform so I can't record the performance. If the last few months are any indication, I'm sure we'll have more visitors and thus, I'll have more opportunities to show you my students' various talents.

Taiwanese Turkey Day

Thanksgiving is an exclusively American holiday. That doesn't mean there was lack of opportunity to celebrate here in Kaohsiung (what I so affectionately call K-town). I still had to work but I got my dinner on later that evening.

The day was actually fairly interesting. The government selected me to judge at an English competition. I know I've mentioned the English Fever in Taiwan in earlier posts. These competitions are one of it's manifestations. There are a number of categories. In storytelling, students memorize and tell a story, in English, to a group of judges. There is also the recitation category where students practice three English readings. They are assigned the reading they will do for the judges right before they get on stage (this isn't memorized). The final competition (and the one I was fortunate enough to judge) was the singing competition. Student groups prepare a song in English with choreography, props and costumes. I had a lot of fun and my fellow judges were great. In fact one of the judges lives right down the street from me. Jade is a professor of American Literature and we might meet for coffee sometime.

When I got home that evening, I met my friends Lauren, Martin and Alice for Thanksgiving dinner. Lauren and Martin are from Indiana and Martin had family in Columbus (it's kind of nice having someone who knows what I'm talking about when I mention the Bogey Inn). Alice is Taiwanese and this was her first time celebrating American Thanksgiving. We had a great time sharing our traditions with her and with each other. The food was great and Xiao Hu got her first of many bites of leftover Thanksgiving Turkey. It was great enjoying my Thanksgiving in Taiwan at a Mexican restaurant. Like C. J. said, at least it was a North American restaurant...close enough.

I've included some pictures from the day below.

Election Day Part II

At about midnight EST, around noon in Taiwan, Barack Obama made his acceptance speech to the country and to the world. I was eating lunch at a vegetarian restaurant attempting to explain our electoral system to a Canadian when she pointed to the TV and said, "It says 'Obama Wins'." I immediately stopped talking and attempted to listen to his speech despite the voice track of the translator drowning out his voice.

I have to admit, when I saw the Chicago skyline behind the him, that tears welled up in my eyes. This is such a historic time for our country that I just wanted to be there. I wasn't necessarily a supporter of either candidate but I am proud of our country finally breaking down some of the walls that have been standing for too long.

Now, I hope we can all move forward together and begin making those changes that our country needs. In the end, we are all Americans. I left a country that was despondent and losing hope. I will return to a country that will be refreshed and optimistic.

In cased you missed it or are out of the country like me. Here's the next president's acceptance speech.

Election Day

Today is a HUGE day in the USA. I feel some sorrow for not being there. History is about to be made and I'm living and working on foreign soil. I want to be a part of it and I feel left out...like a teenager who didn't get invited to the party of the year.

Of course, I had an invite. Everyone who's a U.S. citizen has the right to vote no matter where he or she is living in the world. I just got so wrapped up in my life and surviving my time abroad that I couldn't be bothered to send my R.S.V.P.

Now, I'm forced to go about my day in a country that doesn't care (nor should they) about who the next Commander-in-Chief will be. However, it's all that is on my mind.

America is at the edge of a cliff right now. In my mind, either candidate could push us over the edge or he could pull us back to safety. Only time can really tell what the result will be.

Either way, there's a part of me that wishes I was there to be a witness to this dramatic moment. It's one of those moments where everyone remembers exactly where they were and what they were doing when they heard the news...like JFK's assassination or 9/11. Except, instead of hearing of tragedy, we'll be learning of triumph.

I know America has hit a dark time. We experienced such a long run of prosperity that I think it's only natural (and inevitable) that we have our share of struggle. However, I always have hope.

Hope is what is getting me through the regrets of not being present in my home country and not casting my own vote. I hope my fellow Americans make the best choice for our country. I hope, no matter the outcome, our country will finally get the change we so desperately need.

A Wedding...Taiwanese Style

On October 19, I had the opportunity to attend a Taiwanese wedding. Now, I'm usually not a big fan of weddings (at least not the ones I have to attend...I still love watching on TV though). However, I heard and read from many sources that if you get invited to a Taiwanese wedding....GO! Everyone was right. It's an experience you must have. My only regret is that I didn't bring my camera.

My Principal's son was getting married. She invited all of us foreign teachers. I was the only one able to attend. That's not a problem for me. I moved to Taiwan alone. I think I can handle a wedding alone.

First, you need to know the tradition of the red envelope. The red envelope is just that a red envelope filled with money. It's a gift given during special occasions like Chinese New Year and weddings. It's customary to give at least 1200 NT (about 36 USD) per person as a gift. If you bring a guest, that means you double the sum you're giving. Never give a gift of money with a four in the amount. Four is to the Chinese what 13 is to Westerners. That's because the Chinese words for four and death are extremely close in sound. They even build buildings without fourth floors.

I arrived at the Ambassador Hotel with red envelope in hand. As soon as I arrived, I knew this was a high class affair. The Ambassador was obviously a high end hotel located in the heart of Kaohsiung right along the Love River. The signs were in Chinese but I found the one with two hearts and followed the arrow on it up stairs.

I immediately saw people I knew from school. Alice was taking red envelopes along with two other women. They would open the envelope and record the amount given and who gave it. The also directed me to sign a long piece of paper (similar to our Western guest books). I was quickly ushered to the principal who was dressed to the nines in formal evening attire for some pictures. Then I had three or four people from school escort me to my friend Alexis (the Principal's niece and former Wu Fu English teacher) and my seat.

I was in awe of the sheer number of people that were there. There had to be nearly 1000 guests or just under. There was a huge stage at the front of the room with the western style wedding cake on one side and a pyramid of champagne glasses on the other. The musicians were in the middle and the singer was wandering through the tables on the floor.

Just after I sat down, a screen came down showing a slide show of the couple. Alexis explained that in Taiwan, couples have their wedding photos done in advance. It's a full scale photo shoot like you would have for any major fashion magazine. They wear different outfits and have their hair and make-up done (yes, the groom too). I think I counted four or five different "scenes" (including different gowns for each) for this couple.

Soon the show began and I do mean show. Actual wedding ceremonies are small and private. They're only between the immediate families. The banquets are where the action's at. The lights dimmed and children in bedazzled and sequined costumes representing Disney characters came dancing down the main aisle of the hall. Then they performed a choreographed routine to Tony Basil's "Mickey" on the big stage.

Next, was the grand entrance of the bride and groom. The groom was lead down the aisle by a Native American chief in full headdress. The bride followed wearing a traditional white wedding gown. She was escorted by a Native American princess. There was music playing and all eyes were on the bride and groom. All the while, the banquet is in full swing. By the time the bride and groom made it to the stage, we had already been served our second of 12 courses.

The show continued. There were young ballet dancers from Beijing that danced to the Chinese version of "Memories" from Cats. The parents made speeches. The governor of Kaohsiung County was there and made a speech as well as other government officials. The Native American chief and princess presented the bride and groom with a card. The happy couple was also made to shout their love for each other on stage and kiss in front of all the guests.

The food was outstanding. It was traditional Chinese fare with a ritzy twist. By course eight or nine I was stuffed and had trouble continuing to sample everything. Different groups walked around to every table to toast the day and the happy couple. We toasted with fresh guava juice. I love guava juice. The bride and groom also made the toasting rounds with their parents. At that point, the bride had a new hairstyle and beautiful deep burgundy ball gown with gold accents.

I had Chinese class so I had to leave the banquet a little early but things were wrapping up anyway. Alexis walked me out to help me take part in the last wedding custom. The bride and groom stand at the exit with trays that have candy, their picture, and a small gift (in this case a purple bead lotus flower). This is to thank their guests for coming. Alexis taught me the Chinese phrase to say to them but I forget. It's along the lines of our congratulations or good luck. The bride was in her third ball gown of the evening with yet another elaborate hairstyle. This dress was a deep, rich red that reminded me of a gothic princess. I think it was my favorite of the three.

I wondered when the bride and groom have time to eat during all this hoopla. I know at American weddings (which even the largest are small compared to this) many times the bride and groom don't really get to enjoy their meal and end up going hungry. Alexis told me not to worry. The happy couple actually gets to eat in the hotel room before the festivities start because they have no chance to eat during the actual banquet.

I also found out that unlike in the west there is not just one party but two. I attended the banquet hosted by the groom's family. This banquet is mainly for his family, friends and his and his parent's business associates. My principal told me that this weekend she was off to Taichung to do the same thing all over again for the bride. Wow!

After experiencing a Taiwanese wedding, the western wedding pales in comparison. The Taiwanese know how to celebrate in style. I have another teacher friend who attended a smaller wedding in her town the same weekend. They might not have had all the performances but she reported many of the same experiences...a delicious twelve course meal, 3 beautiful gowns for the bride, gifts from the bride and groom at the end, constant rounds of toasting. All the major elements were present, just with less people. All I have to say is the Taiwanese know how to do it up in style where weddings are involved.

Birthday in Taiwan

I just turned 32-years-old and I celebrated in a foreign country. What an experience to have a birthday in Taiwan!



A few weeks ago, all the foreign teachers in Kaohsiung County (county in Taiwan = state in U.S.) had dinner with the governor. During the dinner, the governor's secretary, Kris, invited me along with the other foreign teachers to join the English conversation group that some of the county employees have. I mentioned that my birthday was around that time. Kris got so excited and decided to turn the dinner into a birthday party for me. So now, I'm had a birthday party being thrown by the government. This is wild and I just keep thinking this would never happen in the States.



The party was a full on Taiwanese banquet and, apparently, I was the guest of honor. That was a wild concept in my mind. Most of the other foreign teachers in the country were there and many government officials. There was so much food it was almost obscene. Traditional Chinese banquets serve food family style from a giant lazy suzy (lazy susan in the States) in the center of the table. I think there were 10-12 courses at this dinner. The food was never ending. There was also Taiwanese red wine and Taiwan Beer (brand name).





I was sitting next to a man named, Hup. Hup is the Director of Civil Affairs (disclaimer: any names and titles could be wrong because I'm writing this from memory two weeks after the event and the name cards they gave me are all in Chinese). Kris kept telling Hup he wasn't doing his job because I wasn't drunk. Hup, however, was drunk and having a good time with his Taiwan Beer. It was a Tuesday night and my principal was there so I had absolutely no intention of getting drunk anyway. Kris tried to help me feel more comfortable with imbibing more. He asked my principal if I could have the next day off. Of course, she said yes but I knew I was really expected in school the next day. Furthermore, I had no intention of taking the day off. I had work I wanted to do.





The cake they bought me was stunning. One thing you learn quickly in Taiwan is baking is an art form. There are coffee shops with baked goods on every corner. The cakes in the cases are outstanding. I love to just look at them. Even better...they're cheap. Such an elaborate cake in the U.S. would cost more than $40 or $50. Here, you might pay $15-$20 USD. They taste good, too. Everyone sang to me and I blew out a candle just like back home. Then I was asked to cut the cake. This is an important tradition. The birthday person makes only one cut into the cake for good health. You DO NOT cut a whole piece or it's bad luck. You just make the first cut and then someone else finishes cutting for you. The cake tasted as divine as it looked.



We enjoyed the good food and conversation for awhile. Soon Kris stood up. Thanked everyone for attending and then said the party is over. Another banquet rule in Taiwan, when the party is over, you don't have to go home but you can't stay here. The beginning time is flexible but the end time is firm. In the U. S. you always have people who linger and talk. Our parties end much more gradually. I don't mind this cultural difference. It's nice to know when I'll be getting home.

My students also celebrated with me at school. My advanced sixth graders surprised me with flowers, chocolates and a speech in English during class on my birthday. They're teacher came in and took pictures as they presented me with their gifts and a card. They also sang to me in English and Chinese. They're a challenging bunch to teach but still a fun group of kids. My principal also came into class and presented me with a small statue as a gift. Then she took pictures of me will all my grade 6 students in that class. Needless to say, I didn't get a whole lot of teaching done that day.

All day, students visited my office with little notes and gifts. One little girl, Ruby, brought me a bear in a wedding gown that was one of her toys and a blank book with a happy birthday note she wrote in English and another note that her friend wrote. It was so sweet because I'm not actually her English teacher but she always talks with me in the English office. All the students are like that. They are so eager to use their English so they can speak to the foreign teacher. They make any of the tough parts of living in a foreign country worth it.

Below are some more pictures from my party. I hope you enjoy.










Okay...so Xiao Hu wasn't at my party but she's so darn cute. I just had to show her off. She's getting so big.